Would You Buy Osburn 2400 Wood Insert Again

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Domicile > Osburn Fireplace Inserts > Osburn 2400 Fireplace Insert OB02401 Alternative Views: Order Online or Call To Place An Social club Click to view another, the new image will be at the top of the page *: Lifetime Warranty Door Overlay Click to view another, the new image will be at the acme of the page Door Overlay Colors Door Overlay Colors*: The door overlay is decorative trim that goes around the door. Surround/Faceplate Click to view another, the new image will be at the top of the folio Faceplate Size Faceplate Size*: Trim for the Environs/Faceplate Click to view another, the new epitome will be at the tiptop of the page Trim Colors Trim Colors*: BLOWER Auction Chimney Liner Kit Sale $300 off Click to view some other, the new image will be at the top of the page Chimney Liner Kits Chimney Liner Kits: ALL CHIMNEY LINER KITS INCLUDE: CHIMNEY CAP, 13" 10 13" TOP PLATE & STOVE ADAPTER to connect the liner to the stove or insert, 316L stainless steel, manufactures lifetime warranty, are made extra flexible and have a the best draft for your Osburn. Click to view another, the new image will exist at the summit of the page Chimney liner accessories Chimney liner accessories: Chimney Liner Insulation: Click to view some other, the new image will be at the height of the folio Loftier temperature silicone High temperature silicone: Upgrade with an Osburn! Osburn 2400. How to measure a fireplace for the Osburn 2400 Insert Log Splitter OSBURN 2400 Wood Fireplace Insert OB02401 firebox – dimension (Depth) = 19 3/8'' OB02401 firebox – dimension (Width) = 22 1/2'' OB02401 firebox – dimension (Height) = xiii 1/2'' Maximum log length for the Osburn 2400 fireplace insert = 21'' Door opening dimension of the Osburn 2400 insert (Width) is 19 1/2'' Door opening dimension of the Osburn 2400 insert (Pinnacle) is 8'' The Door blazon for the Osburn 2400 wood burner is unmarried, glass with cast iron frame The Glass surface – dimensions (Width X Pinnacle) 19 1/viii'' X 8 7/8'' Steel thickness – trunk iii/16" The Weight of the Osburn 2400 wood burning insert = 512 lb (232 kg) The firebox volume is 3.4 cubic feet Fireplace opening for the OB02401 – minimum (Width) 31 v/viii" Fireplace opening for the OB02401– minimum (Height) 23 one/2" Fireplace opening for the OB02401– minimum (Depth) 16 1/four" Glass type Ceramic glass Overall dimension for the OB02401 = (Depth) 28'' Overall dimension for the OB02401 = (Height) 23'' Overall dimension for the OB02401 = (Width) 31 i/8'' Clearance – top (measured from the platform on which the appliance is installed) N.A. Centre line of flue outlet to the back seven 3/4'' Centre line of flue outlet to the side 14 7/8'' Canadian standard (emissions) CSA B415.1 USA standard (emissions) EPA Method 28 Canadian standard (safety) ULC S628 Us standard (prophylactic) UL 1482 Maximum rut output (dry cordwood) for the Osburn 2400 insert is 100,000 BTU/h (29.3 kW) The overall heat output rate (max.) for the Osburn 2400 fireplace wood burner = 44,100 BTU/h (12.9 kW) The Overall heat output charge per unit (min. to max.) for the Osburn 2400 insert equals 13,300 BTU/h (iii.9 kW) Average CO 183.iii g/h Fuel type Dry cordwood Type of chimney Tin can/ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F) Minimum chimney height for the Osburn 2400 woods called-for insert is 12 feet Log positioning (over width) is east to west and you load the woods from left to correct The recommended heating area for the Osburn 2400 wood burning insert = 1,000 - 2,700 foursquare anxiety Steel thickness – top 5/16" Optimum efficiency for the OB02401 equals 78 % Average particulate emissions rate 3.9 grand/h Recommended chimney bore for the Osburn 2400 insert is 6" Baffle blazon Loftier heat-resistant C-bandage Warranty Limited lifetime Tested and listed as per applicable standards By an accredited laboratory (Tin can/The states) Minimum clearances to combustibles * (Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.iv mm) Flammable side curtain to unit of measurement 8" Combustible side wall to unit 14" Flammable top mantle to unit 20 1/two" Combustible shelf to unit of measurement 25 1/ii" Projection in the room minimum/maximum iii one/four" - vii" Minimum floor protection in forepart of unit Canada: 18", USA: 16" Osburn 2400 Forest Fireplace Insert Transmission AC02006 Liner Fixation Kit Transmission AC01370 Chimney Offset Adaptor Manual AC02585 SPLITZ-IT 5 Tonnes Electric Log Splitter AC02582 Ash vacuum cleaner Osburn 2400 Wood Fireplace Insert Parts If you accept questions, delight telephone call us at (516) 974-9742 Recommended and related items Digital Moisture Reader Electric Log Splitter Draw Collar for Wood Fireplace Insert Frequently Asked Questions Do I need an EPA certified or CSAB415.ane-10 certified heater? You first have to identify what your needs are. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple redundancy heat source in example of power failure, y'all do not necessarily demand to invest more coin in order to purchase an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater. However, if your goal is to estrus on a regular basis, the extra dollars volition prove to be a skillful investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release upwardly to 90% less particles into the temper, which makes forest a renewable and clean source of heat. Every bit a upshot, if the fashion and size of the heater you lot are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion engineering science. Yous will assistance the environment and reduce your wood consumption by upwardly to 30%. NOTE: If you lot live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified forest heaters are mandatory. Exceptions utilize for sure categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also accept by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does non have an official regulation on wood heating. It must as well exist noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place. Why is the efficiency as per the EPA's test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency? EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance'southward efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA's directives consists of an average between iv dissimilar burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open up). The optimum efficiency that nosotros publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the aforementioned test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs crave that the unit of measurement exist used to maximize fire times. How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it? Before answering this question, it is very important that you lot conspicuously identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to raise the ambiance of a room, while others volition buy a heater equally their master source of heat. At that place is no adept or bad reason for buying a woods-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you similar all-time, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most fourth dimension. The estrus and wait of a glowing burn down volition create an temper of warmth and coziness. If your primary need is to heat, yous must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you desire to heat an 800-square-pes area on one floor, yous demand to buy a heater with a minimum chapters of 800 sq. ft. If you need to heat more than i floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you lot heat the main floor as well. However, the opposite is not true; a heater located on the main flooring (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Go along in mind likewise that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly. If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add together fifty% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you take 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200. If you need to heat more than than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add together fifty% of the surface of the heart floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper flooring. For instance, if you lot install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you lot volition need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. Information technology will help you understand the explanations provided in this department. REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, non central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you desire an fifty-fifty temperature throughout the business firm, you need to consider a fundamental heating system, such equally a warm air woods furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you demand may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum chapters of one,400 sq.ft., it volition exist more than prudent to buy a heater with a chapters of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are iii main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the college loading chapters). The cartoon higher up gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the firm is well insulated and that air can circulate betwixt each flooring through an open stairway and/or floor traps. Does my heater qualify nether the LEED program? The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Pattern (LEED) Green Edifice Rating Organization™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green edifice and evolution practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted criterion for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. Information technology provides building owners and operators the tools they need to accept an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings' performance. The Canadian Light-green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score accomplished, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to conform a broad range of dark-green edifice strategies that all-time fit the constraints and goals of item projects. The Canadian rating systems are an accommodation of the United states of america Green Building Council'south (USGBC) LEED Light-green Building Rating Arrangement, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry. Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can authorize under LEED and obtain upwardly to one point provided that they meet the following criteria. Why doesn't my heater produce enough heat? Possible causes and solutions: 1 - The moisture content of your wood is too high. Solution: Make sure y'all utilise expert, seasoned cord forest. The wood y'all burn plays an of import part in the overall functioning of your heater. Your wood should have been properly stale for approximately one year. Storage is also primal. Wood that has been cutting for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood volition dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind volition be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should exist protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Utilize a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%. 2 - The air command mechanism is not open up enough. Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to continue the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must ever exist closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of cherry-red embers and the logs must exist completely lit up before you lot close the air control completely. This tin can easily take up to one hour. three - The logs that yous are using are too big. Solution: Apply smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation betwixt the logs. The aforementioned weight of wood cut in many pocket-sized pieces will produce more estrus than fewer, larger logs. Merely add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding half dozen inches should ever be split. Avoid stacking logs to the meridian of the firebox. four - The chimney draft is too weak. Solution #ane: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small-scale, intense fire, and get out the door ajar (never exit the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Shut the unit's door when yous reach a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately xv minutes. And then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature within the flue accomplish approximately 700 °F during the start-up. This is even favorable in gild to properly start your heater. You lot must, even so, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long menstruation of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit. Solution #2: Your heater may non take all the oxygen information technology needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You lot first demand to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open up the nearest window past approximately ii inches. If you observe a pregnant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an boosted source of oxygen, the typhoon will remain weak and cause the drinking glass stay muddied. Solution #iii: The chimney may be too brusk. In lodge to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve anxiety (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the firm) is a minimum. A height of xv feet or higher is platonic. Solution #four: Your exhaust organization may exist too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than 1 ninety° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should exist as short as possible and have a minimum gradient of 1/4" per pes. Solution #5: Your frazzle system may exist oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-upwardly is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Well-nigh avant-garde combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) take a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your exhaust organization does not take a 6" diameter, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" bore inside the frazzle system. Why does the fire go out when I close the loading door? Possible causes and solutions: one - The moisture content of your wood is besides loftier. Solution: Make sure you use skillful, seasoned string wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your forest should have been properly stale for approximately 1 year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for ane, ii or fifty-fifty more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may accept rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood volition dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not likewise long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The forest should exist placed in the sunniest expanse and should be protected from the rain and snowfall on top, just not on the sides. Utilize a moisture reader to mensurate the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%. ii - The air control mechanism is non open plenty. Solution: Accommodate the air command mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always exist closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must exist completely lit up before you close the air command completely. This can easily take upwards to ane hour. 3 - The logs that you are using are too big. Solution: Use smaller pieces of forest and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The aforementioned weight of wood cut in many pocket-size pieces volition produce more oestrus than fewer, larger logs. Simply add big logs when you accept a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding vi inches should ever be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox. 4 - The chimney draft is as well weak. Solution #ane: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to bereft rut in the frazzle system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Earlier inserting larger logs, utilise dry out kindling to obtain a good bed of cherry embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit'due south door when you attain a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open up for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Annotation that in that location is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700 °F during the start-upward. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (in a higher place the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the frazzle pipe, approximately eighteen inches in a higher place the unit. Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to permit for a sufficient typhoon. Y'all first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open up the nearest window by approximately two inches. If you notice a meaning improvement, it is a sign that the unit of measurement needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the typhoon will remain weak and crusade the drinking glass stay dirty. Solution #iii: The chimney may be also brusk. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must accept a minimum pinnacle. Twelve anxiety (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of fifteen feet or college is platonic. Solution #four: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep gradient. Ideally, your frazzle system should non accept more than than i 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and accept a minimum gradient of one/iv" per pes. Solution #5: Your frazzle organisation may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the book of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that volition allow for a sufficient typhoon. Near advanced combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) have a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your frazzle system does non have a 6" bore, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter within the exhaust arrangement. Why is the BTU according to EPA exam information smaller than the one advertised? Y'all will discover a difference between the BTU output as per the EPA's examination data and what is advertised on our web site and/or product literature. The maximum BTU output we advertise is what volition be obtained with a full load of seasoned cordwood inserted inside the firebox. The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test process requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a mode that does non represent the way the firebox book would unremarkably exist utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA examination load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA'southward exam data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood. What burn fourth dimension volition I become from my wood heater? The combustion time for an EPA or CSAB415.ane-ten certified, non-catalytic forest appliance depends on many factors, the most important existence the size of its firebox. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic pes firebox or more will normally accept longer burn-times. From half dozen to 8 hours is nearly the burn down time y'all volition get. Some companies will advertise longer burn down times, but be careful, this adding is made from the fourth dimension you lite the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn bicycle. This represents 2 to iii hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, y'all will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to become the maximum heat out of your apparatus when you are home. If you lot don't reload the heater and permit information technology burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (nosotros call this the "tail end" of the combustion cycle). This "tail terminate" volition provide rut for another 4 to v hours. And then if you are looking for a six to viii-hr burn time, make certain you choose an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified forest heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. If yous are going to rely mostly on forest for heating and your house has more ii,000 square feet, do not hesitate to choose one of our larger units (>85,000 BTU). Those appliances volition take a burn time of approximately 8 to x hours. Will my insert work in the instance of a ability failure? Your insert can be used in a power failure. An insert is congenital like a wood stove. The merely thing that volition non work in a power failure is the blower. Operating your insert without the blower will not damage the unit. The disadvantage is that you volition not benefit from the rut circulation effectually the insert's jacket. Inserts come with a blower because a large portion of the unit is inserted into a masonry opening. The estrus that radiates from the portion of the firebox inserted into the masonry hearth does non attain the room as it would with a freestanding wood stove. This is why inserts have a jacket congenital effectually the back portion of their firebox. The heat is trapped inside that jacket and is pushed back in forepart of the stove and into the room with a blower. Without electricity, you will not recover every bit much oestrus from the unit. The radiating heat will come up mainly from the glass and the front portion of the insert. What is the advantage of installing a wood insert into a masonry fireplace? An insert is a particularly designed apparatus intended for installation into a masonry fireplace. Inserts are used to convert conventional masonry fireplaces into effective heating systems. The insert firebox is surrounded past an outer shell. Room air flows between the insert body and the outer beat where it is heated before being returned to the room by natural convection or transferred mechanically. Most of the heat is delivered to the room instead of beingness trapped backside the insert in the masonry structure. A decorative faceplate covers the space between the insert and the fireplace opening. Why does my wood insert blower not movement a lot of air? All of our inserts and blowers are designed to complement each other. It is a matter of achieving the greatest amount of estrus transfer from the unit of measurement. The fundamental is to design the insert and then air can move and excerpt the greatest amount of heat without cooling the firebox and hindering the efficiency of the unit. If the blower velocity were to be increased, it would give the impression that the unit heats more. However, information technology would really blow cooler air and reduce the unit's efficiency. A hot firebox will burn down better and cleaner. A slower just hotter air displacement is therefore always preferable. The aforementioned principle applies to the estrus sensor available on many models. Information technology is amend for the heat sensor to activate the blower later, when the unit is very hot, rather than activating it too early and accident cooler air when the unit is yet completing its offset-up phase. Can I install a liner with a five-inch or v.5-inch diameter? All of our inserts are designed to function with a half-dozen" liner. However, information technology is adequate to install a 5" or 5.five" liner when the masonry chimney is also tight for a half-dozen" liner. Under certain conditions, the probability of a drafting issue is increased, which could favor smoke spillage and/or reduce combustion quality. Simply generally speaking, the vast majority of homeowners who properly install a v" or 5.5" liner and employ good heating techniques will be very satisfied with the functioning of their wood insert. Review This Product: Share your knowledge of this product. Be the start to write a review »

Osburn's were first sold to the public in 1979 and at that time they were manufactured in Victoria, British
Columbia, Canada. Today Osburn'south are made in Quebec Canada. Osburn was the beginning e'er N American manufacturer to produce a wood stove
in compliance with Oregon State'due south strict air emission standards.
OsburnWoodStoves.com is an authorized leading etailer of Osburn Heating Appliances.
The industry website is Osburn-mfg.com
"Don't merely replace your old forest stove, pellet stove or fireplace insert, upgrade information technology with an Osburn"

Call us (516) 974-9742, We are set up to aid! We are open today, From 9am - 5pm Est.

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